The quote Alberta Ferretti provided in her show notes explaining her spring collection was so abstract and out of touch with what went down on the runway, it feels useless to reprint it here. But the gist was: soft, naïve clothes as a metaphor for women understanding themselves in today’s world. Far more concrete and clear was Ferretti’s obvious play for a more casual, perhaps contemporary customer.
The collection was filled with pretty clothes — part hippie dips, part street utility, all immaculately crafted with classic Aeffe know-how — that were much more dressed-down than what Ferretti is typically known for. Naïve doily lace tops, jumpsuits and tent dresses in pink and blue pastels were mixed with baggy tapered trousers, saggy crochet bell-bottoms and denim jackets with maximal utility pockets.
Oversize tailoring and the ethereal pleated sundresses that rang true to Ferretti heritage were mixed in, as were gigantic straw backpacks and totes. All the colors had a sun-washed fade to them until the collection turned to all-black for the finale. Whether pale or dark, fancy or every day, within Ferretti’s wheelhouse or a stretch outside of it, there were a lot of appealing, wearable, pieces in the lineup, though not all of them telegraphed luxury. To be fair, the term is up for redefining now more than ever, and Ferretti is entitled to her go at it.